Commarque Castle
We had to walk through what can only be described as an enchanted forest with tall, tall trees and emerald colored moss to get to the valley of the River LaBuene, where the 12th century castle, though in ruins, stood proudly.
At the bottom, we crossed a clear rocky stream then looked up and gasped at the magnitude of the site. We entered through a cave in the rock where there were several carved-out rooms, including a stable. We were able to reach the top by stopping to rest at several levels along the very steep climb. We tried to imagine the lives that were lived there. The kitchen had a huge stone fireplace with a bread oven and stone sink basin, similar to the ones in our little maison. There was even a chapel in the castle. At the top, we took a moment to look at the views all around, including a neighboring castle in ruins. It was an easy walk down before the long incline up through the forest. By the time we reached our car, our legs felt like noodles.
Details
Hey, Mom. Say "Cheese"
The first picture was taken from the top. If you look closely, you can see a man in a red sweater inside the remains of the chapel.
Les Eysies
Les Eysies is one of the many daily markets in the towns surrounding our village. There was at least one market every single day of the week.
Each market had a variety of fruits and vegetables, clothing, jewelry, hats and so much more.
What did we buy? Wine and cheese, of course!
Our First Brocante
I've always loved old things. I've always loved France. To be able to shop for French antiques was a dream come true. It was the first item on my list of things to do during my stay. When we pulled into the parking lot, I could hardly contain my enthusiasm. We were greeted by a very tall Frenchman, who of course, welcomed us with his gravelly voice in his native language. We greeted back in French, "Bonjour."
"Parlez-vous Anglais?" I asked.
"Non!", came his gruff response followed by a mouthful of French "blah, blah, blah."
My face must have shown my feelings because he started laughing, then said very plainly, "Just kidding. Whatcha looking for?"
Relief and laughter followed. I appreciated his sense of humor. He turned out to be very helpful. He stayed back from us but was actively listening and when we would wonder aloud about some item, he would chime in and tell us all about it. If we seemed particularly interested in something, he would show us similar items around the brocante. We shopped until we had seen almost everything...twice. This exact experience was more than I could have imagined.
Our first full day in a new country and we slept half the day away, but we went easy on ourselves and savored a slow breakfast of coffee and tartines, while sitting at the farmhouse table discussing how to spend the remaining half of the day. Since we knew very little about the area, we decided to just get into the rental car and drive.
ST. CYPRIEN
A few miles down the curvy, hilly country roads, we found ourselves in the small town of St. Cyprien. The daily market was just closing up, but I was able to purchase some fabric with blue poppies on it from a fabric truck. All the stores were closed on Sunday, so we walked around enjoying the unfamiliar architecture. We came upon a Catholic Church. We tried the doors and were surprised to find them open. I had never been in a church like this. The sanctuary was dark directing our eyes forward to the well-lit alter area, where we knelt to lift a prayer of gratitude for this experience.
As we were walking toward the back of the church, this vignette caught our attention. The stone statue of Mary was ethereally lit by prayers of those who were praying for someone they love. It was, indeed, too perfect for this world.
We noticed the hanging marble plaques but did not yet know their meaning.
Rose draped doorways
SARLAT
A little further down the road, we discovered Sarlat-la-Caneda, one of the oldest medieval towns in Europe. One of my favorite movies, Ever After was filmed in Sarlat and her surrounding countryside. Sarlat is filled with cobblestone streets, arched tunnels and turrets. There are several restaurants with outdoor seating and always some tourist friendly activity going on. We went to an art exhibit in one of the turrets, having to climb several sets of tiny spiral staircases. Sarlat is also the foie gras capital of the world. Kurt tried it. As for me? No thank you.
Sarlat is bustling during the day then becomes golden when the sun goes down and the gaslights come on.
Updated: May 3, 2022
After nearly twenty-four hours of travel from home to Nashville, to Baltimore to Paris, then seven hours by car to southern France, we finally arrived at the hamlet of Baran. Walking down the lane to our front door, (with actual door bells), the smell of spring flowers on every door stoop and windowsill welcomed us to the French countryside. We were met by the caretaker, Roger, who gave us a short tour of the house and some basic information about the area, then promptly left us alone in this foreign place.
Exhausted and jetlagged, we unloaded our bags and set out to find a grocery store as we were starving and there were no restaurants in this very rural place.
After our gourmet dinner of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, (so much for our first French meal) we took a walk around the hamlet. Roger had told us that all lands were public and that we could walk freely without regard to property lines.
An inconspicuous dirt path lured us in and let us pick a bouquet of wildflowers for the kitchen table.
Fields of sheep and cattle grazed contently in their heavenly pastures.
. Chickens walked around as freely as we did in the little town square.
Multitudes of birds sang loudly, bragging to us about how lucky they were to live there.
The centuries old houses, with their red tiled roofs had stone drains that poured out onto the gravel, creating a soothing trickle.
As we walked back toward our maison, crunching gravel underfoot, it seemed as though we were in another world. It felt surreal, like a dream. The ochre-colored houses cast a golden glow that wasn't only seen but felt. I felt God in this place. He seemed to be near and pouring out blessings on me
Details
Windows
Four-hundred-year-old floor stonework
Ancient Drains
Around our hamlet
After a good night's sleep, we were ready to venture outside our hamlet.
